Shepherd

Knitting Tips

Yarn
is the term used to describe any fibre or combination of different fibres spun and twisted together.

Ply
is a term to describe either the number of single spun threads twisted together or denotes a thickness which achieves a set tension when a yarn is knitted with particular size needles. An example is 8 ply or DK which can have two or more ply twisted together but when knitted on 4.00mm needles has a tension of 22 stitches and 30 rows when measured over a 10cm knitted square.

Crepe
is a term used to describe a number of spun plys that are twisted together in a cable form. This type of yarn is considered to knit a longer life garment and has a crisper handle.

Fingering
yarns describes two or more plys twisted together and has a soft handle.

Fancy
is a loose term that is descriptive of a non-standard twisted yarn that may be a combination of different plys, fibres or injects. They often knit to a non standard tension. It is not recommended to substitute fancy yarns when specified in a pattern.

Fibre
is the term used that describes the origin and type of material in the yarn.

Wool
for shepherd' handknitting yarns is selected from fine fleece for its softness and comfort. Wool can be machine washable - when specifically treated to withstand a specific wool wash cycle. If it is nominated on the ball band as "hand wash", It is generally not machine wash treated or the type of wool yarn is spun in a way that more care in washing is required to keep your garment in perfect shape and retain the soft handle.

Cotton
is a natural fibre that is suitable for warmer climates but when blended can be a trans-seasonal yarn. It tends to be heavier in weight than wool and synthetics.

Blends
of natural fibres such as Wool, Alpaca, Silk, Cashmere, Cotton with each other or with synthetics, are created for either, wear and washability improvements or price considerations.

Synthetics
have names such as acrylic, nylon, polyester, but can vary considerably with their softness and aesthetic properties. When blended they can add value to a more delicate natural fibre. Generally they are lighter and easier to care for.

When Buying and Selecting Yarn
we advise you use the recommended yarns stated in the pattern to achieve the best result. The pattern is written and knitted in the specified yarn which is of a set tension and meterage.
If you choose alternative yarns a tension square must be knitted to ensure you achieve the stated tension in the pattern and check that the fabric is satisfactory. You should also check that the meterage and weight of your substituted yarns are similar to the specified yarn. This will ensure your yarn purchase will be sufficient to complete your knitted project.

The Ball Bands
has very important information to assist you and should be kept as a reference after completion of you knitted project. On the ball band you will find a shade and dye-lot number. When buying yarn you should check that all the balls have the same dye-lot number to ensure you have the same shade throughout you knitting. Even though every care is taken to dye and shade identically every time, there can be a slight variance which may not be apparent when knitting but could show as a shade variance when completed.
The ball band also gives care and washing instructions, yarn composition and tension when using a specified needle size. Meterage, weight of yarn and any unique consideration that may be of assistance to you. It is useful to keep a ball band and attach it to your tension square as a reference in case extra yarn is required at a later date.

Knitting Accessories

A pattern instruction
will tell you what you will need to complete the particular item being worked. As well as yarn and needles, it is very useful to have a basic accessories kit. A good accessories kit would contain the following - scissors, pen, paper and safety pins. A knitting bag with lots of pockets and a knitting case to protect your knitting needles and crochet hooks and a pillow case to help keep your knitting clean.

Knitting needles
are used in pairs to produce to the knitted fabric. They come in a variety of sizes and are pointed at one end and have a knob at the other end to retain the stitches. They come in a range of different lengths and sizes. Plastic needles can become brittle if not used for some time. Before you begin we suggest you place them under warm water for a few minutes to add flexibility.

It is useful
to have a range of needle sizes so tension squares can be knitted and needle sizes changed to obtain the correct tension for the project being worked. Choose a length that will hold the stitches required for the project and that you feel comfortable working with. If possible buy a complete set of needles with a case to keep them in, so that you will always have on hand the size required for any project. Discard any bent or blunt needles. Blunt points slow the speed and ease at which you can work.

Needle gauges
are punched with holes corresponding to needle sizes and are marked with the old numerical sizing as well as metric sizing so any needle size can easily be checked. The needle size corresponds to the smallest hole it can go through.

A ruler or tape measure
is used to check tension squares, when working to a measurement and to check the overall measurement of a completed project. For best results always measure work on a flat surface ensuring that the work is not stretched before measuring.

Wool, sewing or knitter's needles
are used to sew completed pieces of knitting together. They are large with a broad eye for easy threading and a blunt point that will slip between the knitted stitches without splitting or fraying the yarn. A tapestry needle is also suitable.

A row counter
is used to count the number of rows that have been knitted. It is a cylinder with a numbered dial that is pushed onto the needle and is turned at the completion of each row. This is especially helpful when working long pattern repeats.

Double pointed needles
have points at both ends and are sold in sets of four. Double pointed needles are used in a set of four for neckbands or socks.

Cable needles
are short needles with points at both ends. They are used to hold the stitches of a cable to the back or front of the main body of the knitting to form a cable pattern. They generally come in three thicknesses and can be either straight or with a U bend to stop stitches slipping off. Use a cable needle smaller than the needles you are using if possible as this will prevent stretching the stitches.

Stitch holders
resemble large safety pins and are used to hold stitches while they are not being worked eg: Stitches are left on a stitch holder at the neck to be picked up later for a neckband.

Yarn bobbins are shaped pieces of plastic onto which you can wind short lengths of yarn. Where two or more colours are used in a row, it can be difficult to avoid the yarn tangling. Using bobbins keeps the yarns separate by allowing them to hang at the back of work. They are also used for picture knitting.

Pins
with a coloured glass head(if possible) to avoid losing them in the knitting, are used to mark the tension swatch and also when picking up stitches evenly along an edge(to mark sections).

Point protectors
are available in different sizes. They slip on the points of your needles when you put your knitting down. They keep your stitches from falling off the ends of the needles.

Circular needles
consist of two short needles, joined by a flexible length of plastic. The plastic varies in length, shorter lengths for neckbands etc. and longer lengths for shawls or garments with too large a number of stitches to be worked from two needles. Circular needles are used when knitting in rounds or they can be used to knit in rows to accommodate a large number of stitches.